From cheapest to most involved
| Approach | Labor | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Screw-in LED lamp (BR30/PAR30) into existing socket | ~2 min | Cheapest, keeps original trim. Worst dimming performance, no air-sealing gain. |
| Retrofit trim/module (E26 adapter + integrated trim, torsion springs) | 5–10 min | The default. Keeps the can, new gasketed trim, best value. |
| Canless wafer (remove can entirely, remote J-box) | 30–60+ min | Only worth it if cans are damaged / non-IC / wrong size, or the ceiling is open. Some drywall-repair risk. |
What we design around
Dimming — this is most callbacks
Old TRIAC/leading-edge dimmers + LED = flicker, buzz, pop-on, and drop-out at the low end. Swap to a CL-rated or ELV dimmer (Lutron Diva CL, Caséta) and check the manufacturer's compatibility chart against the specific trim. An old dimmer wanting 40W won't behave with three 9W cans. Three-way/multi-location must be same-system dimmer + companion — mixing brands fails. Don't mix brands or purchase batches on one dimmer either; you'll see uneven dimming and visible color shift.
Ghosting / faint glow when off
Leakage from illuminated toggles, smart switches, or induced voltage on long parallel runs. Fix with a load-correction module (Lutron LUT-MLC) or a non-illuminated switch.
Heat kills drivers, not LEDs
A non-IC can buried in insulation, or a Triangle attic at 140°F, will halve driver life on cheap product. We confirm IC-rated + airtight (ASTM E283, ≤2.0 CFM) for anything in the thermal envelope. NEC 410.116: ½″ to combustibles, insulation 3″ back unless identified for IC.
Color
Selectable CCT switches are standard now — we set every unit before it goes in the ceiling. One 4000K in a row of 3000K is the #1 punch-list item. We spec 90+ CRI for kitchens, baths, and retail; 80 CRI looks flat on food and skin.
Lumen mismatch
A 65W BR30 was ~650 lm. Many 6″ retrofits push 1000–1100 lm — customers describe it as “hospital.” We use selectable-lumen models or step down.
Loss of function
Adjustable eyeballs/gimbals for art or accent lighting get lost with flat retrofit trims. We confirm before quoting. And integrated units fail as a whole — no lamp swap — so we set that expectation in writing.
Wet / damp locations
Shower trims need a damp/wet rating + lens. Soffits need a wet rating.
Fire-rated ceilings
Condos, multifamily, and commercial corridors: the retrofit must maintain the assembly rating. Wafers usually need a listed fire-rated cover — an easy inspection failure if skipped.
For offices, retail, and multifamily
- Retrofit kits must be UL 1598C listed for field installation, and the luminaire has to be re-labeled per the kit instructions. Inspectors do check this.
- 277V compatibility and 0-10V vs. TRIAC — we verify driver type before ordering.
- Occupancy sensors: LED driver inrush can be 20–50× steady state. Sensors/relays rated for incandescent wattage can weld contacts — we use the sensor's LED/ballast amp rating, not watts.
- DLC listing is required for most utility lighting incentives — worth verifying current Duke Smart $aver terms before baking a rebate into a bid.
- Emergency/egress cans need a compatible battery-backup driver; not all retrofits accept one.
Quick answers
Do I have to replace the whole can?
No, in most cases the housing stays and only the trim/module changes.
Will my dimmer still work?
Often not well. Budget for a dimmer swap on every dimmed circuit.
Why is one light a different color?
Mismatched CCT setting or mixed brands. Fixable, but it's a return trip if not caught at install.
How long do they last?
15–25 years of rated LED life, but the driver is the real lifespan — typically a 5-year warranty. Attic heat is the biggest variable.
Can I just use LED bulbs instead?
Yes, cheapest option, but you keep the old trim, get no air sealing, and dimming is usually worse.