The common questions
Can you just swap out what's there?
Usually yes — if there's an existing weatherproof box in good shape and the new fixture's backplate covers the old footprint. A typical swap runs about an hour per fixture.
Can you put a light where there isn't one?
Yes, but it's a different job. We have to fish wire, penetrate the siding or masonry, tie into a circuit and switch, and sometimes open interior drywall. Price and timeline go up accordingly.
Can I buy my own fixtures?
Yes. We warranty our labor; the fixture warranty is between you and the manufacturer. If a customer-supplied fixture is defective, damaged, missing mounting hardware, or not rated for the location, the return trip is billable.
Will it match my other lights?
Only if you buy the same line. Finishes weather — black and oil-rubbed bronze fade, brass patinas — so a new fixture next to a 10-year-old one won't match even if it's the same model.
Will it come on automatically?
Three options: existing wall switch, dusk-to-dawn photocell (built-in or added), or motion sensor. Motion can be in the fixture or a separate sensor. A smart switch works if there's a neutral at the switch box — we verify on site.
Why did my last one only last two years?
Almost always water or the wrong rating — damp-rated fixtures mounted where rain hits them, failed gaskets, or an integrated LED driver that cooked. We spec wet-rated for exposed locations.
Do I need a permit?
Like-for-like replacements generally don't. New locations or new circuits may, and it varies by jurisdiction — we confirm with the local inspections department before we quote.
Things we'll tell you up front
- Paint and siding shadow. When the old fixture comes off, there's often a faded outline, old screw holes, and sometimes caulk residue. If the new fixture is smaller, it will show. We don't paint, patch, or repair siding — we set this expectation at the estimate.
- Rating matters. Wet location for anything exposed to rain or spray; damp location only for covered porches and soffits. We won't install a damp-rated fixture in a wet location.
- Mounting surface drives price. Vinyl needs a mounting block; brick, stone, and stucco mean masonry anchors and more time; fiber cement needs care to avoid cracking. Uneven or lapped surfaces may need a custom block.
- What we may find behind the fixture. Cracked or non-rated boxes, no ground, brittle cloth or rubber insulation on older homes, aluminum branch wiring, rot behind the plate — any of these becomes a change order and we call before we proceed.
- Placement and sizing. Entry sconces run roughly 66″–72″ to center above finished floor, centered on or flanking the door; garage sconces sit higher. Fixture height should be about ¼ to ⅓ the door height — most people pick fixtures too small.
- Bulb color. 2700K–3000K reads warm and residential; 4000K and up looks commercial and harsh on a house. We'll tell you, but it's your call.
- Integrated LED vs. replaceable lamp. If an integrated LED fails out of warranty, the whole fixture gets replaced. Replaceable-lamp fixtures are cheaper to own long-term.
- Sealing. We seal the top and sides and leave the bottom open so trapped water can drain — that's why it isn't sealed all the way around.
- HOA and neighbors. Approval is the homeowner's responsibility. Shielded, downward-facing fixtures avoid glare complaints.
- Weather and access. No exterior ladder work in rain or high wind. Second-story or high commercial mounting may need a lift, which we quote separately.
- Commercial adds. Energy code requires automatic shutoff on exterior lighting (photocell or time switch). Egress and parking areas have minimum illumination requirements — worth a photometric check before committing to decorative sconces.