Where the power comes from
Where does the power come from?
The cheapest path is an existing switched ceiling fixture — we reuse that circuit and switch leg. If the room has no existing light, we pull a new circuit from the panel or extend a nearby one, which adds labor and material.
How many cans can go on one circuit?
LED recessed lights draw roughly 10–15 watts each, so a dozen or more fit comfortably on a standard 15-amp circuit. The limit is almost never the lights — it's what else is already sharing that circuit.
Can you tap the kitchen or bathroom outlets for power?
No. Kitchen small-appliance circuits and bathroom receptacle circuits are dedicated by code and can't feed lighting. Those rooms need power sourced elsewhere.
Does attic access matter?
Significantly. With an accessible attic above, we run cable from above and cut only the fixture holes. On a first-floor ceiling with living space above, we're fishing wire blind through the cavity, which means more time and usually some drywall patching.
Dimmers, smart switches, and zones
Where will the switch go?
Reusing an existing switch box is simplest. A new switch location means fishing a wire down a wall cavity, and that wall has to be open at the top or reachable from the attic — an exterior wall with fire blocking is the worst case.
Can I dim them?
Yes, but the dimmer has to be rated for LED loads. A leftover dimmer from incandescent days is the number one cause of flicker, buzz, and lights that won't turn fully off. We spec the dimmer to the fixture.
Can I use smart switches?
Usually. Most smart switches require a neutral conductor in the switch box, and homes wired before the mid-2010s often don't have one there. We verify this before quoting.
Can the lights be split into zones?
Yes — separating task lighting over a counter or island from general ceiling lighting is common and worth doing. Each zone needs its own switch leg, so it's much cheaper to decide this before we start than after.
Why the layout follows the ceiling
Why can't the lights go exactly where I drew them?
Ceiling joists typically run every 16 or 24 inches, and a can has to land in the open bay between them. We can shift a fixture a few inches, but we can't cut a joist to make a light line up.
What about beams, trusses, and dropped soffits?
Engineered lumber and roof trusses can't be drilled or notched — period. Beams and soffits also block the cavity entirely, so the layout gets designed around them rather than through them.
Is there a fixture that fits tight spaces?
Yes. Canless “wafer” lights need only a shallow hole and a small junction box, so they fit where a traditional housing won't. They're the usual answer for tight bays, low clearance, and retrofits into finished ceilings.
Does insulation affect the fixture choice?
Yes. Anything in contact with insulation requires an IC-rated, airtight fixture. Using the wrong type creates a heat and air-sealing problem in the attic.
Will there be drywall repair?
For a clean retrofit with attic access, usually not beyond the fixture holes. Fishing wire through a finished ceiling or wall often requires small access cuts — we identify likely spots during the walkthrough so there are no surprises.
How do you decide spacing?
A common starting point is spacing equal to about half the ceiling height, with the first row roughly 2 to 3 feet off the walls. Final layout balances that against joist locations, HVAC ducts, and where you actually want light.